Wales
Arenig Fawr and Moel Llynfant
Character: A walk of surprises. The country and terrain change often over this area
Ascent: 2500 feet
Time: 5-6 hours
Map: Ordnance Survey Landranger series (1:50,000) sheet 125 Bala and Lake Efyrnwy
Start on the small road to the south of Llyn Celyn, near the cattle grid at 857 392. Take the southerly path marked on the map for about 1.2 km, then head west over the water course for the prominent east ridge of Arenig Fawr. The second water course, from Llyn Arenig Fawr itself, can be followed up to the small dam at the mouth of the lake. This is a lovely secluded mountain tarn, and only a few feet above road level!
Contour around the lake to its southern point and clamber through some heathery tussocks for the main east ridge of Arenig Fawr. This is a great little ridge, and at the top, where an optimist might expect the summit (!) the view opens out to a moorland type environment. A semicircle around this depression on its northern side leads one to the start of the main climb. In mist (common here), it may be difficult to tell exactly where one is on this large eastern flank of the mountain, and the best bet is to head more west than necessary to gain the ridge and follow this to the top. The sumit itself is surprisingly rocky, and bears the memorial to 8 American airmen who sadly crashed here in 1943 after nearly completing their journey from the States.
A couple of hundred metres or so to the south is the subsidiary top, which gives the mountain its characteristic "twin peaks" appearance from the west.
The walk down the southern ridge is an absolute beauty. On a clear day you can see for miles, and there really appears to be nothing higher in all Christendom! Moel Llynfant is visible to the south west, and appears as only a small rise from this greater height. However, it is a pull when you get to it!
As you continue down the grassy slopes, the valley to your west pulls you over magnetically towards Moel Llynfant. A real scar of a road (forestry? - doesn't quite seem to make sense) is joined and at the top of its rise, the flat moor to your right needs to be crossed. The author decided to try and be a purist and walk Moel Llynfant south to north, rather than the more obvious solution of climbing straight up the mountains eastern side. Theoretically, it was hoped, this would give slightly easier ground. In fact this is the case once the first quarter of the ascent has been acomplished, but the first portion is over terrible loose large slate slabs at the foot of Moel Llynfants SSE flanks. I leave it to you!
After this torture, the steep but comfortable walk up Moel Llynfants side is wonderful. The views back to Arenig Fawr are good, and the grass is soft underfoot. The top is a delightful green, with views to all sides.
The way on is obvious - almost due north on more grassy ridge to the excellent but deserted house at Amnodd-bwll (a potential youth hostel, perhaps?). From here the forestry track to the NE leads you to more ruins at Amnodd-wen, and a very attractive old trackway, due to its state of disrepair, down north, then eventually NE on to the path of an old railway, near Pont Rhyd-y-fen. This railway track is great fun to follow, watching the rabbits run off either side when they see you appear in the distance. This kind of industrial heritage really appeals! Eventually the road heading east makes more sense , and just before getting back to the car you are rewarded (as if you need more reward!) with a fine view over the surprisingly nice (for a man made lake) Llyn Celyn. A great day out. You could argue its not "off the beaten track", but in my whole day out I did not see one other person on the hills.