Scotland
Meall nan Tarmachan and Meall Garbh
Character: A little bit of a trudge, but wonderful views
Ascent: ~2000 feet
Time: 4.5 hours
Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer Sheet 378, 1:25,000, Ben Lawers and Glen Lyon
Transport: We used a car! Nearest town - Killin
Sources: Irvine Butterfield "The High Mountains"
Accommodation: Killin SYHA (Tel: 01838 300 260)
The Tarmachan Ridge seen from the south over Loch Tay
Quicktime (.mov) movie, 11.5 MB
Another cheating start! As described by Irvine Butterfield, the shortest route starts at the Lochan na Lairige dam, or just before it. A parking area, some one or two hundred yards past the visitors centre, is clear on the left. From this you cross a stile and follow a four wheel drive track that contours around the southern slopes of the mountain. This is the route out. However, on the way up, we left the track within just a few metres, where a walking path is clear amongst the heathery tussocks, heading up the broad and somewhat vague southern ridge of MNT.
There is a minor top to cross as you head north, which is just over 3000 feet (not sure if this counts as a Munro top, but being a summit bagger only, who cares - only joking of course!). This spot reminded me just a little of the minor summit off Red Pike (buttermere) in the English Lake District, and I still in my memory almost picture a Blea Tarn here, but in this case there is no nestled lochan.
Beyond the low point, you climb up quite a steep narrow but eroded track, and hands actually come in useful at a couple of points. This track heads under the summit of MNT on its east side, and then joins MNTs north ridge about one hundred yards from the summit cairn. The views are fantastic, with Ben Lawers of course being particularly prominent , if somewhat hidden by its outlier, BeinnGhlas. Loch Tay is unrolled beneath you to your north.
Meall Garbh
We headed on to Meall Grabh, only a ten minute stroll away. We had intended to head on and complete the whole ridge, taking in Beinn nan Eachan (to my mind one day this might have separate Munro summit status - its such a huge and steep drop between Meall Garbh and this next top. In fact that was our problem. The ground was wet, and the terribly eroded path down to Beallach Riadhailt was a real danger. Had I only consulted wider at Killin Youth Hostel I would probably have been referred to a notice on the wall near the office, advising to head round to the north where anew route, apparently far safer, has been pioneered. As it was, the old track was much too dangerous for us and we returned to Meall Garbh.
Meall Garbh has an excellent descent down its obvious south ridge. The path does become indistinct at times, but this is once you are off the summit arete. I was fortunate enough to see a stag on this descent, and a lovely little frog (toad?).
Frog (toad? lets say amphibian!) on Meall Garbh lower slopes
We hit the four wheel drive track we had started on at the small bridge over the Allt Tir Altair, and followed it east back around to the car park. Another great day out!